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As we were not going anywhere
today, we took it easy and slept in for a while. We took out the
kitchen stuff for breakfast (setting up in someone's front lawn), had
breakfast, and then put it all away again. We then just hung around
the village while the drivers worked on the truck and the engine.
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As we were on a dirt road, there
was red dust everywhere. Every time a car, bus or truck drove by, a
big cloud of red dust would envelope everything. It was hot and sunny
- we would seek out whatever shade we could find and would move our position
as the sun moved in the sky.
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Just after we finished breakfast,
we noticed that children were arriving at the school right near us. It
turned out today was the first day back after the Christmas holidays.
They swept up the dirt yard in front of the school. It was then
assembly time - and we then saw some (at least to us) horrible sights.
Many of the children were beaten by the teacher. They would kneel in
front of him and have their palms beaten with a rod. Others were held
in the air in a horizontal position by two other students and then beaten
across the thighs. The screams were very horrible - but the more they
screamed, the more they were hit. We were told later that this was
punishment for things like being late, not having their uniform, etc.
The parents, apparently as we were told, supported the disciplining.
At one point, we could see the teacher running to a few houses rounding up
missing children, who would run to the school - and be beaten.
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We spend the morning hanging out
in the village - we meet and speak with some of the locals and get to know
the head teacher quite well - Elizabeth. She was with us as the
children were being punished by one of the male teachers and explained to us
what was going on. We have a quick lunch of soup and bread - did not
have much in terms of fresh food.
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After lunch after much hard and
dirty work, the drivers start the engine and it seems to be running.
After a bit of checking, we pack up all our stuff and get in the truck,
ready to drive off. But once they start the engine again and apply
some power, things start to go wrong. Oil was shooting out all over
the place. We all need to get off again and they get back to work to
see what they can do to try to fix it.
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After hanging about a bit, we
(Jacqui and Lars) decide to wander around the village a bit. We were
getting quite bored of just sitting around. We decide to go visit
Elizabeth in her home. This is about 200 meters down the road.
We find her at home. She turns out to be quite an interesting
women. She is about 50 years old and is married to a man with two
wives. She has six children of her own and the husband has a total of
22 children. Not sure how many the other wife had or if he had other
wives at one point in time - but he has been busy. She is quite
traditional, but at the same time quite advanced. She believes in all
the old, traditional ways (wife is subservient, etc), but at the same time
wants the children to learn and to experience modern ways.
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We hang out at her place for a
while and discover a number of things. Her husband has just lost his
mother and they are in a period of mourning (that is why Elizabeth had
shaved her hair off) and they had family and friends visiting (they would
come by for 30 days after the death to pay their respects). The
husband seemed to be very well respected and senior member of the village.
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At one point in time, the chief
of the village came by and he joined in our conversation. After a
while, Elizabeth told us the chief wanted to take us his to home for a drink
- we, of course, accepted. We walked another 200 meters down the road
to his compound. They gathered up a number of chairs and we sat down
in his front yard under a large tree. We bought each other drinks and
had a nice chat about the village and what was going on. During this
time, Paolo came by, joined us, and told us that the repair of the truck had
failed and that we would be spending another night in the village. The
chief and Elizabeth's husband excused themselves, telling us that they were
building a new school building and that they had to go around the village
collecting funds for its construction.
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We then wandered back to the
campsite for dinner. After cleaning up and packing away the dinner
stuff, we decide to head back to Elizabeth's to have a bath (she had offered
it earlier in the day). She seemed pleased to see us again and was
happy that we would wash up. She insisted on getting the water from a
well across the street, saying that the water did not have as much dirt in
it. We went with her to the well and helped her pull up the buckets of
water. She seemed quite surprised that we could do it. We helped her
carry the two buckets back - she carried the bucket on her head. We
the had a bucket bath in her backyard, and did the dirt and dust wash
off. The clean water turned very brown very quickly.
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After getting a bit cleaner, we
head back to the campsite to set up our tent and go to sleep. Along
the way back, we meet some more of the villagers - many of them are
impressed that Jacqui remembers their names. Once we get back and are
getting ready to set up our tent, Elizabeth comes back and says that many
members of her family want to watch us put up our "canvas"
(tent). It is quite funny and, once again, we know what performing
animals must feel like. Once we are done, we say good night, but they
all hang around waiting for us to get in and go to bed. We quickly
brush our teeth with 30 people watching every move and then crawl into our
tent. They hang around outside for quite a while, but after a while we
are left in peace to go to sleep.
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