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The main activity of the morning,
other than the usual packing up of our stuff and having breakfast, is
packing away all the stuff that we all bought in Dogon. There was quite a
bit of wood carvings and other stuff, and it was a challenge to find space
for it all. But, in the end, we managed to find space for everything
on the truck.
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Shortly before 9 AM we headed
off. Our first stop is Songo, where we arrive shortly after 10
AM. Songo is a Dogon village on top of the escarpment, which is famous
as it is the village where most of the boys (and many of the girls) will go
to be circumcised - the major initiation ceremony for the children.
They will go between the ages of 5 and 13, and the ceremony is performed
once every three years.
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It is a very nice village.
We walk through it to get to the base of a rock outcropping. A short
way up is where the ceremony takes place. We are shown the rock
drawing of a crocodile.
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We then head to the rock wall
where each boy, after they are circumcised will draw a symbol which will
represent him for the rest of his life. There are hundreds of drawings
and they have many different figures - including animals, masks, etc.
At this spot the boys would line up and await their turn.
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We then went to look at where
they stored the musical instruments used specifically for this
ceremony. They are stored in a small cave - quite available (that is
quite amazing in itself that they are just sitting there in the open).
They spin it around and it makes quite an interesting sound.
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We then walk up to a rock
overhang and get a great view over the village, including how it is laid out
over all and how each family's home is structured. A man must have one
granary for each wife. From there, we wander back down to the village
and go to the school. They show us the school and indicated that they
are trying to raise money for a new school. We all gave
something. Prior to leaving the village, we were shown to a typical
house. They first showed us where the old people live. It was
built in the traditional way, with low roofs, dark and quite small. We
were then shown a new style one, which did not have all the charm of the old
one, but was bigger, had more light and higher ceilings.
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We left the village shortly after
11 AM and started our drive to the Mali - Burkina Faso border. At 1 PM
we arrived at Sevare. We stopped for lunch and to allow the cook group
to shop. We had lunch in a nice, small pleasant restaurant where we
sat outside under the shade of some trees. The food took a bit longer
than expected as we suspect they had to catch, kill and prepare the chickens
for the grilled chicken dishes that we had ordered.
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At 2:45 PM we headed on our way and drove until 4:45 PM, when we pulled off
the road for the night. We set up a bush camp just off the road.
Prior to dinner we worked on our journals. After relaxing a bit
following dinner, we retired to our tent for the night.
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We guess
that our achievement of the day (and for the trip so far) is that we crossed
the 10,000 km mark on our trans-Africa travels (including truck, ferrys,
pirogues and foot).
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