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We wake up to another wonderful
morning. The mornings seem to be the best time here - clear and
sunny. We have our usual meager breakfast (poor Gerlee - not enough
meat!), then pack up and our on our way by 10 AM. After a short drive
we find a well, where we try to fill some of our water bottles. But
the water is too dirty, even for cooking, so we fill one bottle to use as
washing up water. Lars also takes the opportunity to wash his shirt -
it dries quickly in the dry desert air as we drive along.
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We carry on southwards on the
desert steppes. The track seems to follow the line formed by the
wooden electric wire poles. The scenery is pretty monotonous and does
not change for hours. At 1 PM we stop at one of the few gers
that we have seen. There are only two people there - a grandmother and
one of her daughters. After being invited, we soon learn that she has
13 children. They live in a very basic ger with a dirt floor that has
a thin carper as covering. It seems that we interrupted them in their preparations
for their own lunch, so we soon take our leave and carry on.
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After about a further half an
hour of driving, we decide to pull over and make our lunch next to a small
hut. We are approaching the mountains and the weather is looking very
threatening, so we think it is better to stop here. As we are making
our lunch, a few locals stop by. First are two girls, that have walked
a few hundred meters from the nearest ger. They sit down and start to
chat with Gerlee. We offer them some of our food. Next comes a
guy on a motorcycle, who also stops and sees what is happening.
Finally, a truck stops by and two more men join us. It has turned out
to be quite a gathering. Gerlee has made a meat soup and he shares
that with them. We share what we can with them also.
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After we finish lunch, we drive
up into the mountains and the stormy weather that covers them. The
track follows a dried up river bed that winds it's way up the side of the
mountain. At times, it forms a narrow gully carved through the solid
rock, and at other times the river forms a wide, stony bed that we can make
swift progress on. After we have penetrated high up into the
mountains, we drive off to the left and pass onto a ridge and drive along
from mini-peak to mini-peak. If the sky had been clear, this must have
been a stunning drive. But we were fogged in with the rain pouring
down. At all the "scenic" spots, we just stayed in the jeep
and imagined what the view must be like.
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After about three hours of
driving and getting a little lost in the fog (but good thing there are the
occasional gers to ask directions), we begin to descend from the mountains
and enter the desert area known as the Gobi. There is just one problem
- this appears to have been a very wet year and it has been raining
recently, so some parts of the desert have become soaked, especially with
the run off from the mountain. Gerlee has been warned about one
stretch of sand that has become so water logged, it must be like
quicksand. We need to find a way around it.
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In the end, we have to drive over
25 km out of our way to find a passage through the tricky part. Even
where we crossed we had to be careful. We could note the sections of
sand that have become very mushy with the water - the jeep would just sink
in up to its axles. In fact, as we are trying to find our own way
through, we come across another jeep that is stuck far out in the
sand. We unfortunately cannot go to their aid, otherwise we too would
have gotten stuck.
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Once we are through the swampy
bit, which lays at the bottom of a broad, flat valley where all the water
gathers, we needed to find our way back to the correct track. First
thing to do, stop at the nearest ger and ask directions. The ger we
stop at is owned by a newly wed couple that invites us in. It is very
bare, mostly likely as they are still building up their house wares.
As usual, we are offered tea and snacks. The snacks this time are some
deep fried bread sticks. While they are very hard, at least they do
not have the awful taste of the products made form mare's milk.
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We are soon on the right track
and after another hour or so of driving we finally arrive at the massive
dunes of Khongoryn Els. These dunes in the Gobi are spectacular.
They can be as high as 800 meters, 12 km wide and stretch for over 100
km. We stop at a group of gers and go for a visit. We are
offered the usual tea and snacks, of which we partake some. The most
amusing part of the stay was seeing the goat come up to the ger door
bleating loudly. We discover that she is in need of being
milked. They ask if Jacqui would like to milk her, but she
declines. One of the young girls, about 4 years old, then sits down
outside the front door and begins to milk the goat. We stay only a
short while as the husband is overly forceful on trying to sell us services,
such as guiding on the dunes (he speaks no English, so not sure how useful
he would be) and camel rides. Gerlee says he drinks too
much.
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So, when we have a choice of
staying at one of their gers, or an empty ger nearby owned by another friend
of Gerlee, we take the empty ger off on its own. Rather not have to
deal with a drunk. We drive over there and, while the owner cleans it
up, admire the dunes that stretch to our left and right as far as we can
see. The sun, as it slowly begins to set, begins to peak out from the
clouds bathing the dunes in a warm glow. The other amazing sight we
have is of a full rainbow, that stretches from the edge of the dunes up into
the sky and back down to the desert steppe in a full half circle.
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While we are getting dinner
ready, one of the sons of the owner of the other set of gers comes over and
enters our ger. While he has been sent over to try and sell us cheap
souvenirs, he seems more interested in our possessions and what we are up
to. We take a quick look at what he has to offer, but it is really
cheap stuff, so he just sits there and stares at us. After a while we
take a Polaroid of him, offer it to him and he then shortly leaves and walks
the short way back to his gers, admiring the photo on the way.
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Just as we finish watching the
last traces of the sunset, our dinner is ready, so we retire to our ger and
enjoy our pasta. Gerlee is eating with his friend, so we use up some
of our non-meat dishes. We wash up our dishes and then Lars does his
best to start a fire. We have no paper or kindling, so it is
difficult, but fortunately the desert wood is dry and we get a fire
going. And we soon discover how hot this wood burns - the ger
practically turns into a sauna and the candle in the holder that we left
near the stove completely melts.
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We head off to bed, but we have
to lay on top of our sleeping bags as it is now too hot in the ger.
But as soon as the fire goes out sometime in the night, it will get very
cold, so we have our sleeping bags ready.
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