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After the hard, long evening
yesterday after getting bogged in the mud, we have a slow, relaxing
morning. While we pack up our tent and prepare and have our breakfast,
we admire the view over the lake. It is really a very spectacular
spot, and it might be nice to spend some more time here, nestled in by the
mountains towering over us, but we have other places to go. We take a
brief wander into the forests surrounding us and admire the virgin nature of
it. The floor is covered with huge mushrooms, but we are not sure if
they are safe to eat or not.
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We depart from here just before
10:30 AM, driving back up the steep, winding road that has been carved into
the cliff face. We take it nice and slow, in low gear. At the
top of the road, we turn off the track to drive up to the top of the nearby
peak to get a fantastic view over the lake and surrounding area. While
we are admiring the view, a couple of eagles come soaring overhead.
While they are heading in one general direction, they are getting there by
making wide circles in the sky.
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Then, it is back the way we came
along the bumpy, rocky road. After a bit over an hours driving, we
come to a stream and Gerlee asks if we can stop so that he can wash off some
of the mud that was sprayed all over his vehicle yesterday while trying to
get out of the mud. We said, yes, of course and just hung out and
watched the yaks graze. Nearby there is a ger and it is interesting to
watch them go and milk the mares. They walk over to the area where
they are grazing and call out some form of cry. The mares seem to
respond to this and come over to a central place where the foals are tied
up. The mares are then milked.
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Just before we once again pass
through Uyanaga, we come upon a Buddhist alter that seems to have quite a
bit of Shaman influence with the blue cloth and other offerings that are
piled up there. After passing through Uyanaga, we make our way to
Arvaikheer, the capital of the aimag, arriving just before 3 PM. First
stop is petrol. We are fortunate and find a place that will sell it to
us for Togrog 480 per liter.
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Then it is lunch. The first
spot we go to seems to be a bit expensive and they do not seem to have real
local food, so we decide to try the place next door. Well, it turns
out that we may have walked into a hostess bar or even brothel, but we
decide to stay when they tell they can cook up the dishes we are looking
for. Maybe not the best place, but the food is edible and
reasonable. The final stop is at the central container market.
We just need to get some fresh bread and some more water. We will soon
be entering the Gobi, and water will be harder to find.
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Once we have finished all these
tasks, we carry on south towards the Gobi. The landscape begins to
change as we enter the desert steppe. It becomes sandy and dry with very
little grass and small shrubs. Along the way as we drive, we pass no
virtually no other cars and we see hardly any gers. This now seems
unusual to us given the many gers that we have en so far. But it must
be hard to raise any livestock here.
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Just after 7 PM we arrive in
Guchin-Us. Nothing much in this town, except we need to top of with
petrol. we find a station where they sell us petrol at Togrog 650 per
liter. They have no electricity, so they have to us a hand pump.
They crank the handle round and round - hard work. After the tanks are
full, we make a brief stop at the local grocery store (well, what passes for
one around here). They do not have much - mainly some dry goods.
Gerlee seems to be enquiring about where we can spend the night. On
the steppes it is very windy, so either we have to find a ger or house to
stay in or find a spot sheltered from the wind to set up our tents.
Standing out in the desert steppe with the sand and dust gusting by, we
appreciate this.
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We decide to spend the night in
our tents and Gerlee says that there is shelter about 30 minutes to the
northwest of town. A bit of backtracking, but worth it. Better
than spending it in some smelly hut. Well, it takes about 40 minutes
to get there, with a bit of driving on crazy terrain to get there in amongst
giant boulders and rocks, but it is worth it. We have great shelter
from the wind in amongst the rocks and it is a beautiful spot.
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We find a flat and sheltered spot
to set up our tent and then begin to prepare dinner. We are actually
able to make quite a nice kitchen out of the step like rock formations
around us. The steps make a great wind break and also act as nice work
benches for preparing the food. As we are preparing dinner, the sun
begins to set and we are able to enjoy a glorious sunset. As the sun
sets, the sky slowly turns orange, then bright red and then slowly fades
back to orange and then to darkness. As the sun was setting, a large
group of swallows was swirling around in the sky, with the sunset as a
backdrop. What a a way to enjoy our dinner - better than any fine
dining.
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After cleaning up and putting
things away, we decide to head off to bed. No wood, so no fire
tonight. Once again, as the light fades away, the temperature
drops. But fortunately, there is no wind, so it is not too bed,
especially in the tent snuggled up in our sleeping bags.
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