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Today is our last of driving
around the countryside of Mongolia - we will be arriving back in Ulan Baatar
this evening. We have our usual relaxed start to the morning, packing
up and having breakfast around 9 AM. During breakfast, we make sure
that we finish off whatever food we have left - we will be having lunch at
one of the gers along the way. While we are having breakfast, an old man is
struggling to get his small herd of cattle to head down the gully. But
they do not want to seem to go that way, so he ends up having to chase one
that has run back the way they have come.
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We head off shortly after 10 AM
and make our way the short distance back to the town and it's Gimpil
Darjaalan Khiid monastery. The temple was built in the late 18th
century to commemorate the first ever visit by a Dalai Lama to
Mongolia. At one point in time, it was used by 500 monks. It was
only one of about nine monasteries in the area to survive the communists as
it was turned into a warehouse and shop.
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It is closed when we arrive, but
as we are standing outside the gate, we see a huge contingent of children
running our way across the dusty fields from the nearby homes. There
is also an older boy (or young man) more slowly making his way over to the
temple. The young children reach us first and they hold out boxes of
cheap souvenirs that they try to sell us. But there is nothing much
worth getting. Soon the other young man arrives and he opens the gate
to the temple and lets us in to take a look around.
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It is small, but quite
nice. We take a quick look at the exterior and then he opens the doors
to the temple itself. It is very well done inside and has been restored
back, as far as we can tell, very near to its original state. We
understand that when the purges took place in the 1930s, many people, at
great personal risk, hid or buried large parts of the religious articles
from the interior of the temples. Once Mongolia was released from the
Soviet sphere, they were slowly returned to the temples that still remained.
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After our short visit, we begin
our long drive north to Ulan Baatar. It will take most of the day to
get there as we drive along the flat steppe. At one point, we see four
gazelle run across the track in front of. Only when they are at a safe
distance do they stop. Around 1 PM we enter a pass through a small set
of rocky ridges. At this point we stop at a series of guanzes for
lunch. This is local fast food. We have tsuivan - the fried
noodles - once more. It is OK, but not the best. The noodles
have already been made and cut, so they are not as fresh. But the
meat, sitting in a box on the floor, and vegetables are freshly cut and
cooked.
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After many hours of further
driving, we know that we are on the outskirts of Ulan Baatar as the number
of people and gers multiplies and we are at last on a paved road. This
is our first stretch of paved road in almost two weeks. The final
approach to Ulan Baatar is over a ridge and when you pass over the crest,
the whole city is spread out below you in the valley between two mountain
ranges. It is quite a contrast to the open, unspoiled countryside that
we have been traveling through. It truly hits us that our trip is
over.
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We arrive back at Bolod's
guesthouse just after 6 PM. We spend the next two and a half hours
having a badly needed shower and organising our stuff. We also check
our emails. Then it is time to head out for a stroll and to get some
dinner. We find a nice cafe where we are able to get some local food.
Just as we are now getting ready to leave Mongolia, we are figuring out how to order the
food, even with menus in Russian.
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We return to the guest house,
hang out for a while and then head off to bed. While it is a bit noisy
(cars, buses and motorcycles and people), the window does not directly face
onto a street, so it is bearable. Also, given the absolute silence we
have had out on the steppe, this may just seem noisier to us now then it
would before we went out on our jeep trip. The occasional mosquito
disturbs our sleep, but we still get a good rest.
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