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As we have a long drive ahead of
us, we decide to leave a bit earlier this morning. So we pack up our
stuff and then head out to the "gazebo" to enjoy our breakfast
that Jacqui prepared in the ger. To our surprise, there are even more goat parts hanging
from the beams, including a fresh head and some feet, with slabs of meat
laying on the roof. The lady of the ger begins to cook some soup with
the meat before we leave. After packing up our bags, we head off at
9:30 AM.
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We have one last look back at the
lake at the top of the pass and then carry on. We back track all the way to
Tsetserleg, passing through the same country as we did on our way in.
Along the way we pass a group of camels hanging around. We arrive in the small town
of Tsetserleg at 2:30 PM after a long and tiring
drive. First things - we fill up on petrol, which is now available at
a decent price. Then off to have lunch at the same place as last
time. This time, we order one dish to share amongst the two of
us. The portions are just too large. The final stop is at the
market to pick up some supplies such as drinking water and bread. The
market is what they call a container market. It is a series of 20 foot
containers set up in an open area and people sell their wares (mostly dry
goods) from them. Very practical (and cheap). There is also a
small market in the building where meat and bread are sold.
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We are back on the road at 4 PM
and we still have a ways to go. We are now heading into an area with
more forests and flowers. We make our way over some mountain passes
and into adjoining valleys. Finally, after a bit more than an hour, we
arrive at the Tsenkher Jiguur hot springs. We go and check out whether
we want to have a dip in the hot pool (a swimming pool rather than a natural
pool) and a shower. But the prices they are quoting are so outrageous,
that we decide to pass. Our driver says that he will see what he can
do at an adjoining "resort" that is a bit less fancy.
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He is a able to arrange a side
deal, which is less than half the "published price" at that
facility and about a quarter of what we would have had to pay at the other
one. It comes to about five dollars for the two of us to use the hot
pool and the showers. We do not have much time, so we rush in and
change. We are the only ones there and they pump some more hot water
into the pools to heat them up. There is a strong sulfur smell.
After about half an hour in the pool, it is time to get out and take our
showers. The showers are nice, but the only problem is that the water
has a very strong smell. But this is better than no shower at all,
especially as there are no more showers for the rest of our trip until we
return to Ulan Baatar.
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Freshly scrubbed and glowing from
the hot springs, we return to the jeep. We ask Gerlee if he would like
to use the hot springs, but he declines and says he would fall asleep while
driving if he did. He says he will wash in the (ice cold) river.
We leave the hot springs around 6:30 PM and head down a valley to look for a
camp site on the river. We reach a point where we have to cross the
river, but he did not seem to want to do it too night - seems too muddy, so
we spend about 20 minutes driving in some crazy spots looking for a place to
set up for the night. We drive through small streams, over boulders
and around small trees, but cannot find a suitable spot. Finally, we
guess he decides he will have to try on the other side of the river.
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We make our way over to the muddy
banks of the river and notice there another vehicle stuck in the mud.
We stop to check out the situation and the driver of the other vehicle comes
over to chat. A plan of action is agreed upon after a number of likely
spots are checked out. A stack of logs is dropped in the muddiest spot
and we engage low gear and the four wheel drive and quickly make our way
over to the other side with no troubles. Now it is time to help out
the other driver who is stuck.
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A couple of cables are tied
together and then attached to the front of the stuck car and the back of our
jeep. It takes a few attempts and some spinning wheels wit mud
spraying out, but we are able to pull the other vehicle out of the mud. Now
it is time to go and set up camp for the night, but Gerlee still takes his
time looking for a good spot on the bank of the river. We have to
weave between trees and roll over rocks, but a nice spot on the river bank
with trees that provide shade is found. Some of the trees are large
and have lots of character. Mushrooms are sprouting from the trunks of
some. Very few bugs - just a few that we are able to swat away.
We have soon set up camp and are beginning to prepare dinner.
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At this time, a local nomad rides
(bareback) up to our camp and begins to chat with us (or rather, with
Gerlee). He seems like a very nice guy - a bit simple, but very
friendly. We take a Polaroid of him, and he is very excited and
happy. He carefully puts the picture away inside his jacket. He
leaves just before we have our dinner of fettuccine alfredo. After
dinner, we build a big fire and sit around enjoying the heat of the flames
as the temperature begins to drop as it gets dark. The waning moon
rises over the river and its light is reflected in the water.
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As we are sitting around the
fire, we hear some drunken singing coming from the bush. After a few
minutes, a horse emerges and passes right by us with a totally drunk local
swaying in the saddle, belting out local songs. It is amazing how he
is able to stay in the saddle. He is swaying from front to back and to
the sides, but just as he looks like he is about to fall off, he sways back
in the other direction. He certainly is not giving the horse any
directions, but the faithful animal seems to know perfectly well where to
go. With that reassuring thought, we put out the fire and head off to
the tent to sleep.
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