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We soon find out that in Mongolia
it seems people are not morning people. Our driver suggests that we
leave at 10 AM, and this becomes our regular start time. So we are
able to have a bit of a lay in and only emerge from our tent around 8:30 AM
to pack up our stuff and get breakfast ready.
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We leave shortly before
10 AM and carry on along the dirt track. We have been driving parallel
to a new major road that is under construction, but it is not quite ready
for us. It should be very nice when done and speed up travel along
this stretch.
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We have a brief stop to check out
two cranes that are hanging out next to the many small ponds that dot the
area. We have another quick stop in the small, dusty town of
Dashchilen to top up the petrol. They do their best to make sure the
tank is full - the jeep is rocked back and forth to get every last drop
in. We also find out that we will have to change our route somewhat as
their is no petrol to be had (or it is very expensive) along our planned
route.
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At 11:30 AM we stop at the ruins
of Kher Bukhiin Balgas, a 9-10 century city. Not much is left, other
than the lower part of the city wall and sections of various
buildings. We have a quick tour of the museum (nothing much,
especially as no real explanations in English) and wander over to the ruins themselves.
At least they have fenced off the area and hopefully will stop jeeps from
driving over the walls and into the ruins of the city (we can still see the
tire tracks). While there is not too much to see (and we have no
qualified guide to explain it to us), given the many different ancient
cities we have seen in Africa and South America, it is interesting to see
the stone construction used in the building of the structures. The
walls are very thick and it is not fine workmanship like the Incas, but they
have a very interesting way they align the stones on the exterior of the
walls.
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Once we leave the ruins, we have
a short drive until we come to a cluster of gers which seem to be a series
of guanzes. Our driver asks us if we would like Mongolian, and we say
sure. It is much easier and saves out food. He chats with some
people and we are invited into one of the gers. The lady then begins
to prepare fresh dumplings for us (known as buuz). They are flour
based dumplings that are stuffed with chopped mutton and onions and steamed
over the fire.
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As with all gers, in the middle
of the structure is situated the wood fired stove. This serves two
main purposes - provides heat and is used to cook. As there is
virtually no wood around here, it is usually fired with dried horse dung
(and that is what the lady stokes this fire with). That is one of the
major tasks of the ladies each day - to go out and collect horse dung and,
if it is not already dry, to lay it out in the sun to dry. It is fun
to watch our lunch cooked on the spot. She puts the chopping board on
one of the beds (the one room of the ger serves many purposes) and pulls
some meat out from under the bed and begins to chop. Once that is
done, she chops up an onion and some spices. Next, some flour and
water are mixed and the dough is soon made. She cuts it up and small
amounts of meat and onions are added to each and then closed up. They
are then put on a rack placed over water that has been boiling on the stove.
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While our lunch is cooking, our
driver and the son of the lady show us a local game played with the bones of
the animals they raise, namely cattle and yak, sheep, horse, goats and
camels (known as the five snouts). We cannot really tell the
difference between the bones, but them seem to sort them out. The buuz
are surprisingly good. We had expected the meat to be a bit chewy, but
it was not too bad. We ate all our portion (and our driver was very
happy to get his meat for lunch).
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In the afternoon, the vegetation,
but not the terrain, slowly begins to change. The grass becomes
sparser and their are lots of purple thistle-like flowers. The drive
along the steppes is wonderful and it amazing looking back at the road that
we are traveling on.
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At exactly
4 PM we arrive at Ogii Nuur lake, coming over a rise, we see it spread out
below us. Big, but not a huge lake. We have arrived at the end
with a tourist camp (bunch of gers where they over charge you) and a rocky
beach. We stop for a while to sit on the beach and watch the many
locals play in the water. There are some paddle and row boats and they
are having a good time splashing each other. Gerlee goes for a swim
while we just enjoy the sun.
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After about half an hour, we
decide to head on an to look for a campsite. We stop on the edge of
the lake at a point where we can drive up to the water's edge. We
begin to get ready to set up, but as the driver is washing his jeep (he
takes great pride in it, we are glad to see, as this means that he takes
care of it), we decide that we would rather move on. It is still
early, cows are hanging out (and doing other things) in the lake where we
would get water from and the sun is bright and hot and there is no
shade. So, using hand signals and some other props (remember, we have
no common language with the driver), we communicate to Gerlee that we would
like to carry on. No problems. We load up our stuff and are off.
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We drive for over an hour.
There are many more wild flowers now - purple, yellow and some white.
The conditions are pretty wet this year. We make a brief stop in Ogii
Nuur town looking for petrol (none to be had at a reasonable price) and then
stop for the night a few kilometers southwest of the town on the
steppes. While we set up camp and prepare dinner, Gerlee does some
repair work on his jeep. Dinner is rice with chicken curry with apples
for dessert. After dinner, we retire for the night. We have a
goods night sleep, with just a few passing grazing animals letting us know
that we are in a wide open country with no fences.
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